It was a fine sunny day last week and I was approaching Saint-Montan, a quaint medieval village, just before lunchtime. I had big plans to explore the little village and then find somewhere for eat. I was in good spirits.

The car park – about the size for 30 cars I suppose – was completely full so I carried on through the village to find somewhere else to park. Nowhere turned up, but after a good few minutes stuck in a traffic jam along with lots of other hopelessly confused tourists I noticed a small road leading off from the blockage and signed as parking.

Off I went, very pleased with myself that I has spotted the sign hidden behind a lorry.

Unfortunately the parking was closed for a petanque contest, and there was no space to turn around, so I enthusiastically carried on along the track I was on. I don’t know if you have ever driven five kilometres on a rutted track on a steep hill side, with no possibility of passing a car coming in the opposite direction, while the dream of a nice lunch fades away, but it doesn’t put you in the best of moods.

The lane took me further and further out into the wilderness, to places no tourist had ever seen before. Startled birds, having built their nests in the middle of the disused road, scattered before me.

It took me at least 30 minutes to refind the village – special thanks to the GPS, otherwise I’d still be driving now around the back country of south-east France. But things were looking up. The car was remarkably still in one piece and a space had miraculously appeared in the car park, so I was able to set off exploring on foot.

I have to grudgingly admit it is a very pretty village and worth visiting if you are in the area. Ancient houses, cobbled alleys, vaulted passageways, everything you look for in a ‘tourist’ village. I set off through the cobbled streets, carefully noting a restaurant that was advertising a ‘menu crise’ (translation: ‘financial crisis menu’) for 10 euros. Sounded good to me, I’d be back for that.

Staggering up the hot steep streets to reach the castle at the top of the hill, I was ‘amused’ to read the sign on the door saying that the keys to enter the castle were held in a shop…at the bottom of the hill. Some people do have a sense of humour.

Having given up on the prospect of looking around the castle I set off for lunch. Unfortunately I don’t have a watch, haven’t for years, and hadn’t appreciated how late it was. Too late, as it turned out. I had missed my opportunity to find out what a ‘menu crise’ might include, perhaps now I’ll never know. A meal prepared using very cheap and unpleasant ingredients I expect, but I could be wrong.

So if you are passing through the Ardeche this summer I do recommend you visit Saint-Montan, it is very lovely. I also highly recommend you get there earlier than I did. About 7am would be about right I think, if you want at least a small chance of being able to park, so one for the early risers. Happy holidays.