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Cote de Granit Rose

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The Cote de Granit Rose (pink granite coast) runs from Plestin-les-Greves to Louannec, in the Cotes d'Armor ( 22 ) department of Brittany, one of the most outstanding coastlines in Europe. There are only two other examples of this peculiar pink rock in the world, one in Corsica and the other in China. This particular beautiful thirty kilometre stretch of rocky coast, an incredible pink colour edged with turquoise sea and safe fine sandy beaches, is a splendid place for family holidays.

The most fascinating stretch is from to Perros-Guirec via Ploumanac'h to Tregastel Plage , along the easily walked sentier de douaniers, a former coastguard footpath. This winds among grotesquely shaped rocks, especially at Ploumena’ch, weathered by centuries of wind and tide, interspersed with countless rock pools, sandy coves and stunning views and seascapes. The low hills behind the coast are covered with hydrangeas, pine trees, gorse, lavender, mimosa and heather and a wide range of wild flowers.

The resorts have adequate parking and a variety of holiday maker attractions – swimming, sailing, cycling, ice-cream parlours, family friendly restaurants and hotels and, superb camping facilities. Aquaria, tennis, golf (18 hole and crazy), museums, pony and horse riding, castles and for mums suffering withdrawal shopping symptoms, plenty of good quality boutiques and shops. The gently shelving, blue-flagged beaches, notably Testratou at Perros-Guirec (an international sailing centre) and Tregastel are well equipped with diving platforms, children’s clubs, fresh water showers and plenty of space. Plestin-les-Greves has wide expanses of sand ideal for sand yachting.

Tregastel Plage has perhaps six or seven different Grèves’ depending on the state of the tide Coz-Pors, Grève Blanche, Grève Noir (with black sand) and at the end of the Baie Sainte Anne is the Ile Renote, another excellent beach and magnificent (climbable with care) rocks. There are many off-shore islands, some of which can be walked or waded to at low tide (but be careful). Further out are Les Sept Iles, an archipelago, a world renowned sea-bird and seal sanctuary – boat trips available from Perros and Tregastel.

In addition to the attractions of the shoreline, the hinterland is studded with intriguing small town, picturesque villages, pre-historic and mediaeval religious icons, menhirs, dolmens, grottoes, chapels and the intriguing Calvaires telling the stories of the gospels in carved stone instead of stained glass.

The small towns of Lannion, and Treguier make interesting mornings on market days before a light lunch and an afternoon on a beach. Lannion with the River Léguer flowing through, where the high tidal range on this coast can be witnessed in safety is adding to its traditional commerce and is now one of the leading communication research and industrial centres in Europe, although it still has close connections with its heritage, particularly the Templar (Da Vinci Code is about the Templars) Church of Brelevenez in the Old Quarter. Treguier, founded in the 6th Century, with its striking spire is up river from the Jaudy estuary and La Roche Jaune, a commanding castle built to thwart the Vikings.

The climate of the Cote de Granit Rose is oceanic, with long hot sunny days from May through to September. Gales blowing in from the Western Approaches in autumn and winter bring an awesome beauty that matches this rugged coast with its off-shore rocks and reefs, the graveyard of many ships. At night, from the cliff tops, lights continually flashing red, green and white from myriad lighthouses and buoys are a constant and spectacular reminder that the gentle, welcoming coast presented to holiday makers has a darker side, a land of legend, lore, myth, smugglers and douarniers, (Excise men). Wonderful.

note 1: there are only three coastlines of pink granite to be found in the world - here in Brittany, Corsica, and one in China

note 2: pink granite is still quarried in the region, near La Clarté.

Author: Terry Burke, September 2008

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Some places to visit within 30 km: 8 km: Lannion (Town) 4 km: Perros-Guirec (Popular coastal resort on granite coast) 10 km: Tregastel (beach and village) 20 km: Treguier (Breton town)


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