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Bize-Minervois

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Visit Bize-Minervois

Situated between Narbonne and the black mountains on the river Cesse, near Minerve, Bize is a small village with all the bits for a good family day out in summer. Your every need is catered for here, with one bar, two restaurants, a creperie by the river in summer, a tabac, butchers, bakery,  hairdressers, cinema, sweet shop and a particularly well stocked wine shop.

During the hot summer months, the river turns in to a fresh water swimming pool with crystal clear water.  A perfect spot for children, with a life guard at hand (between 1.30 - 7pm) and steps in to the deep-end.  And if you’re a sun worshipper like I am, just stretch your towel out on the pebbled ‘beach’ area.

There is a romantic feel to the place, old stone houses covered in ivy with bright shutters and decorative iron balconies, old fashioned little shops with oversized tills, tight cobbled alleys and gingham table cloths. It’s all a bit much.  And it tends to get our visitors in to a property frenzy as their dreamy ambitions take over their senses. Not surprisingly then, that with a population of 1000, a quarter of the houses here are second homes.

Two Kilometres from Bize, just off the main road you will find L’Oubilo, a cooperative that sells seriously good olives and generally anything ‘olivey’.  With a huge array of olives, oil and tapenade to taste, you will be in olive heaven. And they aren’t like any old olives, they’re buttery, creamy even, totally smooth and utterly moorish. With no one to guard this self-service tasting counter, it would be easy to over load your self. I watched, not long ago, as my father-in-law stood solemnly alone at the counter, popping one in after another.  And I can’t really blame him. What’s so great about them is that the flavour hasn’t been ruined by some over zealous pickling, they are just au natural, and boy do they work. Some day, Waitrose and the like will be introduced, and there will be no going back. And then there’s the oil of course, well if you want to stretch to over €10 a bottle, you will certainly be rewarded. Eat drizzled on fresh bread, a great aperitif.

The cafe at the petrol station next door is a good local hang out, particularly when raining. They do a lunch time menu which is good value if a little basic, and great omlette and chips I’m told. You will be crammed in with the wine growers, the tradesmen and their dogs. It’s a great little place with a cracking atmosphere.

Turn right and you will see Chateau de Cabezac, though not open to the public, it’s pretty impressive in striking white, with pointed turrets reminiscent of Carcassonne’s walled cite. It’s worth a visit if not for the view, but for the wine. The red is of particular note. And if you want to eat something a little more special, try La Bastide Cabezac next door.

A small train runs between Narbonne and Bize during high season, stopping at L’Oubilo along the way. So make a day of it.