Bergerac

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Bergerac is found on the northern bank of the Dordogne River, in the western part of the Dordogne department. It is one of the largest, most important towns in the region and a visit is highly recommended.

Bergerac old town

The highlight of a trip to Bergerac is the old town - the area immediately north of the river - follow the signs to 'vieille ville' or just walk straight up from the main riverside car park. This part of the town has some lovely streets and squares to explore, and a good selection of boutiques.

The main square, Place Pelissiere, slopes gently upwards from the river area. At the top is the lovely St Jacques church which formed part of the Saint Jacques de Compostella pilgrimage. Much of it was destroyed in the Wars of Religion but its attractive bell-tower and balcony are original. Next to the church is one of Bergerac’s statues of Cyrano de Bergerac… although much is made of the 'Cyrano connection' the reality is that there is almost no connection at all between the town and the famous character.

At the lower end of Place Pelissiere is a fountain where locals once did their washing and all around the square are lots of cafes. It is a superb spot to stop and have lunch.

At the top of the square take a look at the houses of Rue St James. These not only house some lovely shops but there is an excellent 14th century building and no 26 has some odd sculptures set into its walls.

There is another square nearby, the Place de la Mirpe, which has another of Cyrano de Bergerac’s statues and lots of trees making this a lovely shady spot in the height of summer. Take time to admire the buildings around the edge of the square. Many of them are really lovely.

Wandering around Bergerac there are many attractive, medieval, half-timbered buildings, there are some particularly good examples on La rue Saint Clar many of which have the upper storey overhanging slightly the lower part of the building. There are several other restaurants scattered around in 'old-town' Bergerac among the attractive medieval half-timbered streets, and some open-air cafes where you can pass a pleasant hour or two people-watching, before taking a stroll along the banks of the Dordogne River.

Wine tasting in Bergerac

Nearby, the Recollets convent is a beautiful building built in 1630. It has a lovely inner courtyard surrounded by wooden galleries. In the summer it is a lovely spot sometimes used for concerts and near to Christmas there is a Christmas fair here. Throughout the year it is linked to the Maison des Vins de Bergerac. There is an excellent exhibition of the 13 wine appellations of Bergerac. Wine tasting is available and there is an interactive display where you can amuse yourself identifying the various smells in a glass of wine.

Bergerac Museums

Also not to be missed in Bergerac is the National Tobacco Museum. This is situated in the Maison Peyrarede which is one of Bergerac‘s most impressive buildings. It was built in 1604 and has one of those lovely corner turrets that you occasionally see on buildings in this area, and Renaissance mullion windows. Louis XIII spent a night in this privately owned hotel. The Tobacco museum includes an impressive display of pipes and retraces 3000 years of history. Tobacco is still an important crop in the region, and you will probably see the bright green broad leaves of the tobacco plant as you tour around.

Another museum is the National Wine and River Navigation Museum, two activities which led to the wealth of Bergerac.

Other Bergerac information

Up from the old town, there is a newer, more modern centre to Bergerac, with more conventional streets and a larger range of 'modern' shops.

The market, held on a Saturday, is at the upper end of the town and sprawls over a large number of the side streets. It is one of the largest and most colourful markets in the Dordogne, and is the best day to visit Bergerac.

Boat trips from Bergerac

When you have explored Bergerac you can take an organised boat trip up the river (start from the car-park at the bottom end of the old-town) to see the town and the nearby countryside from a different perspective.

Note - several people we know have done this and said it was a waste of time because the boat didn't go far enough - I recommend you wait, and take a boat trip from one of the alternative towns further upstream along the Dordogne River.

Getting to Bergerac

Bergerac is one of the main arrival points for visitors to the Dordogne region. Both Ryanair and Flybe operate flights to Bergerac from the UK, and the town is also on the trainline between Bordeaux and Sarlat - Bergerac car hire can be arranged at both the airport and the train station (see travel options below).

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Bergerac Hotels

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